The Costume Maker's Companion by Diane Favell

Author:Diane Favell
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Crowood

7.Fan out the lower section from the waist into six equal segments (the green lines on Figure 138).

8.Cut a circular part of the fan at the top, approximately 3cm from the waist seam, this point being the centre of the circle as seen in the blown-up frame in Figure 138.

NOTE: This may seem a little high to have the pleats, but the seam will go beyond this circular cut, as low as the design dictates, and the rest of the fan will remain inside the jacket back. If you have particularly thin fabric it is possible to go without this cut and have the pleat fan go to a point inside.

9.Mark where you would like the back split to start (blue in Figure 138).

THE SLEEVES

10.Take a two-piece sleeve block, made to fit the main body.

11.Make a toile at this stage, and make sure the sleeve sits correctly and has enough fullness at the sleeve head.

12.It is nice to move the sleeve back seam so that it meets the side back seam. To do this, draw a line where you would like the seam to be on the toile, and then cut along this line, leaving the back seam intact. Re-draw the pattern to use this line as the edge of the pattern.

13.Mark on the sleeve where you would like the cuff to come.

14.Copy the lower sections of the sleeve, and put the seams together as they would be sewn, adding in some fullness along the top edge (drawn in red on Figure 139). Create a separate pattern piece for this section (the cuff).

15.Draw on the cuff pattern where you would like the appliqued fabric to be, and create another pattern piece for this (drawn in blue on Figure 139.)

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